Sunday, December 28, 2008

returning "home"


went back today to visit my grandparents in Sunning, a township within the metropolitan control of xuzhou, my hometown. my dad grew up in the area around Sunning and, today, due to an odd detour, we ended up visiting the middle school where his parents (my grandparents) used to work and where he used to live.

it's been thirty-odd years since he's lived there, and, according to him, they haven't upgraded the facilities much in the interim. the buildings are one-level, concrete, with peeling yellow paint. the insides of the rooms are dark, owing to the small-ish windows. students huddle in unheated rooms in rows of seats (even on a Sunday), with seemingly stacks of papers on their desks. and his old home was in the back of the school courtyard. it's two rooms, in the same concrete style.

how far we've come, in these three decades.

Friday, December 26, 2008

fashion in china

went shopping a few days ago for clothing in china, a whole new wardrobe, actually, given that i had to leave most my clothes back in the states.

i find fascinating how brand obsessed people in china are. maybe it's an universal thing, but the chinese have certainly taken it to an extreme, or perhaps just its logical conclusion.

for one, almost nothing that you can buy will lack for a brand prominently displayed somewhere on the article. this was most noticable w/ dress shoes: i was trying to find a simple pair of black shoes, but every shoe had a small metallic logo with its maker on it. it didn't matter if the maker was some obscure brand out of guangzhou; they had to stick their brand prominently on the shoe itself. sweaters it was a bit easier to find non-branded ones, but in general, everything had one.

which then brings in the second part of the equation: how obsessed the fashion-makers seem to be with american and european brands. polo and lacoste seem to be the most prominent. rather than be content with letting those brands be, the chinese companies have generated countless imitation brands. i can't even count now how many different variations of lacoste's crocodile i've seen in my time here. and ironically, in comparing the prices, some of the imitators have become just as expensive as actual lacoste clothing.

in one particularly amusing moment last year, i went to stand in the mall that sold "Boss Wenbro" (or something like that). and when i asked if they were related to "Hugo Boss", the clerk proudly replied, "oh, that's the German Boss, we're the Italian Boss." If only the Italians knew they had their own "Boss" brand.

i wonder how long it will be before chinese fashion stops trying to parrot american brands, and start developing indigenous luxury brands. the worksmanship is there: after all, the american companies produce here too. the designs? that will take a while longer, but even there, chinese designers are starting to make their headway in the high fashion market. so how long until chinese mass fashion and consumers stop looking for the crocodile.

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as an addendum, i did end up buying yesterday a suit by a chinese brand. maybe it's not as simple as i made it out to be.

Thursday, December 25, 2008

an all-american story

15 hour flight from new york to shanghai. Sat next to a Mr. Chen. He was flying back to Fuzhou to visit his family for the first time in ten years. Ten years. A decade.

Why did he wait so long? Because he finally got a green card.

After a bit more prompting, he reveals more of his story. He came to the states ten years ago illegally. He went through a service that flew him around several destinations in the world: Singapore, Amsterdam, etc. That globe trotting established a record on his passport that made it more credible to U.S. immigration officials that he was a mere tourist. The cover succeeded; he entered the U.S. on a tourist visa and has never left, until today.

He first went to Chinatown, where he briefly stayed before finding a job with a hometown acquaintance. Off he goes to Albany. Starting in the restaurant business without having ever cooked a meal, he works his way up. Much as we in law go from intern to summer associate to associate to partner, so do they in the Chinese restaurant business go from bus boy to waiter to kitchen assistant to head chef. 70 hours a week: seven days a week, from 10 to 9, except on Sundays when it’s 10 to 5, and no paid vacation days. In the hot greasy mess that is the Chinese kitchen. The ultimate prize? Getting enough money to finance one’s own restaurant. So that you can be your own “lao ban.”

Bracket for a second the wider political questions that his journey encompasses. Just marvel at the willingness of this one man to subject him to a strange country, to an unknown ultimate destination, to menial labor at what was surely less-than-minimum wage, to near-complete physical separation from his family, and, did I mention, to bachelor-hood for all that time.

Something to think about for the next time I get Chinese takeout.

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

A journey of a thousand miles...

...begins with being turned away from the consulate.  Apparently my appointment at the French consulate did not go through, so I never made it past security when I went today.  The online appointment system did not have another appointment available till the 31st.  Had to go to the study abroad office, who, through a contact, managed to get me another interview Thursday.

The grand lesson?  It's better to know who to call than what to do. 

Saturday, December 13, 2008

Moving Out, Pt. 1

Just finished disassembling my desk; someone will be picking it up tomorrow around 8:30.  I still remember buying it two and a half years ago:  my parents (back when they were still in the states) and I shopping around, finding the perfect desk, shipping it up to New York.  How much optimism did law school start with?  And to an extent, it's been fulfilled:  I find myself with the job that I'm happy with, with the friends that I'm happy with, with the life that I'm happy with.  In countless ways I've been fortunate.  And yet, still it's hard to let go of this desk, this first leap of faith into the optimism of 1L year. 

Thursday, December 11, 2008

Relaunch

So let's start over again.  I'm always reinventing myself, so it's only fair to subject my blog to the same ordeal. 

In the next year, I plan to travel back to China, then to France, then graduate, then take the bar and become a recognized lawyer, and then off to the seas again, and then finally to settle back down in New York to work. 

If I stick to the plan, which I never do, this blog will catalog that journey. 

Saturday, March 15, 2008

prague day 2

spent most of day in kutna hara---old silver mining town that's reconfigured itself into a cathedral tourist town after the silver dried up a few centuries back. highlight was the massive cathedral, three spires and very cool looking. town itself was very picturesque, as in a post-card. came back, slept, and then went out to party. tasted banana beer, very good. then out to Cross, club in outskirts, and hung out w/very cool group of Swedes and a Czech chick. tasted absenth for first time. not impressed. bar didn't have the sugar or spoons, so we took it straight. bitter as hell.

Friday, March 14, 2008

\prague day 1

arrived in city around 6 in morning. bus system impossible to figure out, and metro not much better. dropped things off in hostel and went for stroll along main shoppoing street is stare mesto, the old town. street is full of u.s. and european brands, completely given over to tourists. money changers everywhere. got good deal on exchange. went on then to the main square in old town, saw the various churches and towers. grabbed b-fast in good bakery. spent a lot of the day in the former jewish ghetto. the whole neighborhood was gentrified a century or so ago, so there's only six synagogues left. of those, the old-new synagogue, first built in 14th century, had the most historical resonance, while the spanish synagogue, built in a moorish style, takes the cake for beauty.

after jewish quarter, we went to lunch. had czech cuisine for first time, not impressed. heavy on meats and dumplings. dan also got cheated when the waiter short-changed him. we went back to hostel, rested up, and then went out later at night. dinner at this italian place, where i tried a four meat combo, all czech cooking---ham, pork, duck, and sausage. extremely heavy. made me swear off meat for a day. then tried to go to this supposedly 14th century beerhall, that ended up looking way too modern and bourgeois, and then to a jazz club, which was empty. were fairly tired so went back to hotel. slept for a couple of hours then jet lag hits. we go down to basement common room and meet erin, the girl who's sharing our room. she was completely smashed. good first day.

Sunday, February 24, 2008

Why I like Obama

Coming today after Hilary's angry vitriol about Obama's use of misleading campaign mailers, and after much soul searching about why I should like Obama, I just want to set my stance down.

To begin, I should say that I don't like Obama for all the usual reasons. 1) I don't think he'll "change" Washington, any more than Jimmy Smith, or now DNC-chair Howard Dean, or say Jesus Christ. 2) I don't find him an incredible speaker. Maybe because as a lawyer I study rhetoric, and maybe because I've never experienced him in person, I find his delivery slow, halting at times, and yes, lacking in substance. 3) I don't find the fact that he's half-black compelling (note how the "half-" is usually left out of the commentary). I think the symbolism is a nice side benefit. But I also think that we can have a lot of figurehead symbolism---Condi Rice, Colin Powell, Bill Richardson---without changing the fundamental racial inequities in this country.

So bear with me, this is my cynical/realist view.

A president has three main practical functions. 1) He is head-of-state, which means that he is the embodiment of America abroad and its chief diplomat and solider. 2) He is head of the executive branch and the administrative state. 3) He is a point-man for generating legislation and pushing through legislation through the bully pulpit. (There are other tasks, e.g. killer of thanksgiving turkey, but they're not important.) On all three tasks, I believe he would be superior to Hilary.

As head-of-state, I think we should look to his well-known talent as a conciliatory figure, someone who can listen to divergent positions, synthesis his own, and exercise persuasive authority. This talent has been attested to both by former colleagues of his at Harvard Law Review, as well as his students at U. Chicago, as well as those who've served with him in politics. It is also a talent that America, at this point, needs. For the past eight years, we've had a president who has liked to hear himself talk, and who has often turned a deaf ear to the international community. It is well-accepted by now that a different tack is needed: someone who can build consensus and engage in multi-lateral action, someone who is not reliant on the projection of [expensive] military force, someone who will listen first and talk second.

I believe that that person is Obama. Of the major candidates, he has come out and said that he will talk with Iran and Syria. Clinton has dismissed this as naive. But is it really? Given the influence of Iran, is it really possible to imagine a lasting peace that does not engage all the stakeholders, however morally objectionable we find them to be? Multi-lateralism, to me, means not only talking with those willing to listen, but finding common ground with those who don't. Can we be multi-lateral only among our "coalition of the willing"? Can we still afford that type of deafness? As commander-in-chief and chief diplomat, we need someone with Obama's people skills.

As chief executive of the administrative state, the area he is arguably weakest in, I still would argue he has proven his strengths. Note that neither candidate has any executive experience: not counting her years as wife-in-chief, Clinton's years were in the Senate, in a legislative role. And Obama has come out and stated that he is not a careful reader of paperwork. Yet their performances in the campaigns---their remarkably different abilities to organize and mobilize a political campaign---has shown me how much Obama might be trusted to run the machinery of the administrative state.

Compare their two performances. Clinton started off with name recognition and a database of fundraisers left over from Bill and from her own Senate campaign. Obama had to build a campaign from scratch. Clinton had front-runner status most of this race, with all the advantages that come with increased media coverage and better rally turnouts. Obama was the long-shot. Yet it was Obama who built an effective national grassroots campaign, Obama who learned the lessons from Howard Dean and made a truly Net 2.0 type effort that generated momentum and fundraising from non-conventional sources, and Obama who time-and-again won the "ground game" in states like Iowa. Simply put, Obama has run a much more effective and efficient campaign, one that played to his strengths, stayed on message, and avoided internecine conflict.

In contrast, we know from the fallout from the resignation of Clinton's campaign manager that her campaign was in some ways a picture of dysfunction. She picked a long-time loyalist to manage her campaign, without regard to the scope of the challenge. It was a campaign plagued by turf wars, by inconsistent messages, and by self-inflicted wounds. Would she be down in delegates now if she could've reined in Bill "Obama's a fairy tale" earlier? If she could've avoided the Obama-used-drugs fiasco? As someone who supposedly "works hard" and is incredibly focused on the details, one cannot help but note the sheer incompetence of a campaign that has veered from message to message, championing change one day and experience the next. If this is how her campaign is run, I don't want to see her White House.

Lastly, the President does have his own policy-agenda. Of course, this is not a Constitutionally allocated role, but I think the modern presidency, by virtue of the electoral mandate and the bully pulpit, has certainly become a source for initiating legislation and coaxing it through. And it is here where, admittedly, Clinton bears more credentials. She has been in the Senate longer, knows how it works, and has more bills to her credit.

In contra-pose, I believe that Obama---as has been demonstrated---would make better use of the bully pulpit. I see Obama (as much as I hate the comparison) as possessing the same gifts of communication as Ronald Reagan: a man who can truly bring to bear public opinion on an issue and inspire the people to follow. I frankly do not see Hilary being able to use the pulpit with the same effect.

On this score then, I would call them even, though with the note that while Obama may learn how to work the legislative process, I doubt Hilary will ever learn how to inspire an audience.

So that's my admittedly broad argument for Obama. I've tried to set a case for him that does not involve the words "change" and that focuses on his objective skills, rather than aspirational goals. I think in this campaign we can come to see them not as resumes, but as human beings each with their own strengths and weaknesses. And at this point in time, I think America needs someone like Obama, someone with the right skills-set for these perilous times.